Let’s admit it. We, the dining public, are low-key fascinated by industry life. What do they eat, what’s in their fridges at home, how do they come up with their ideas; we want to know all the things about these people making dining and drinks magic. Lately, I’ve been wondering about a restaurant industry tradition, the after-shift drink.
During a short-lived stint running a pop-up crepe stand years ago, my husband Brian and I picked up the habit of an after-work drink the fellow slinging breakfast burritos next to us called a shifty. To this day we call our after-work drink that. The key to the shifty for us is that it’s quick and easy. This time of year it’s a dead simple Suze (a bittersweet French liqueur) and tonic, or a spritz -- just inexpensive bubbly, Campari or Aperol, and ice. No fussing with so much as an orange before we head, ice clinking in our glasses, to the deck to chill.
To find out more about this tradition I called up Larry Rice, former owner of the Silver Dollar, and the mind behind a lot of cool bars and restaurants in this town. First off, is the shifty a real thing, or a romanticized notion?
It’s definitely real, he said, although he calls it a shift drink. And when he was working in Chicago, actually, the secret code name for it was a safety meeting!
The idea, he explained, is that it’s a bonding time for bar and restaurant workers. “Sometimes it’s making up for arguing with each other during the shift,” he said. Or it’s about just making it through a hard shift.
After shift is a time to “just take a deep breath and relax,” he said. “It’s like you’re doing something for yourself, you know, you get to take that moment to yourself and … you’re always kind of wound up at the end of your shift, so it’s a nice time to, like, decompress.”
Is it always booze? Usually, he said, although it’s as much about the downtime as it is the beverage, so it may be a cigarette or just a hang out. But when it’s a drink, this is not the time for a convoluted cocktail. Think a whiskey and a beer most of the time, he said.
So, what does a shift drink look like around Louisville? I asked a few pros, and here’s what they shared.
Andy Myers, Culinary director and co-owner of Decade Restaurant in Butchertown:
My post service “shifty” would have to be a Campari & Soda. When I get home after a busy service my wife is usually asleep, so I like to sit on my back porch and listen to music and sip a few drinks. A Campari & Soda is simple, delicious, and easy to make. I also like that it’s not super strong, so I can have a few without overdoing it. I’ve never really liked to go out after work. Restaurants are very busy and stimulating environments — which is something I love about restaurants, but I also need some quiet time in between shifts to balance back out.
Sarah Height, co-owner Canary Club and Bar Nada Nada:
As with most wine professionals, after a long day of working hard, knocking back espressos, and stretching our palates during wine tastings, there is nothing quite like an ice cold super refreshing light beer. Whether that’s on the back patio or at a local dive bar, as long as my friends are around, I’m happy. Now, if I get out in time and I can enjoy a mojito at Havana Rumba, that’s the goal. Mojitos are the best thing you can ask for after a long hot summer day. OTLIGH
John Grisanti, owner and sommelier, Nouvelle:
Over the years I have made a real effort to not go out after shifts … I simply do not need to drink that much. Health has really been coming into the conversation for a few years now in our industry, as it was overlooked for so long. I set a lot of boundaries on days I do not drink - pretty much 5 days a week and prioritize working out daily as part of staying up in shape (cycling and yoga are huge for me). You see this mindset being echoed by a lot of industry leaders — Bobby Stuckey, Aldo Sohm, etc.
In a world that is constantly revolving around alcohol and indulgent eating it is far too easy to get swept up in the fun :)
Liz Huot, co-owner with husband Jesse of Grind Burger Kitchen, Oskars, and Smor Bakeri:
The real answer is shots and a beer. No one is ordering fancy shit. Old Fo and a Ganset …Underbergs and something fancy on draft … maybe tequila and a water.
I’m a TSL: Titos, soda, lime.
If we get the chance to go out, which is infrequently, it’s at odd hours and you want something easy because you don’t want to burden the folks who are also hospitality.
We’re all just trying to chill out and see friends and commiserate.
Executive Chef Jeremy Frederiksen, Paseo:
For me, there are two options for a go-to beverage after a shift. If the bar is set up and we are celebrating good service, I love a Sazerac. It’s ice cold, and as you raise the glass, you are enveloped in a bright fennel and citrus aroma; from the expressed lemon and absinthe, it is sweet but not overly so. As you set the glass down, the warmth of cognac and rye whiskey starts in your chest, with the fragrance expanding to the warm and spicy with bitters. It’s wonderful. A sazerac can engage your senses after spending all day balancing flavors and tastes, tasting the same things repeatedly.
The second option is to go to the Barret Bar for an ice-cold Coors Banquet and a pour of Old Grand Dad Bonded. When you are exhausted but mentally still running at the pace of service, it’s a great way to wind down.
I come from kitchens that are steeped in tradition, where alcohol is always the reward. You can see how folks can develop an unhealthy relationship. The evolution of the shifty is coming to understand this and being vocal about it. I always encourage my team to practice moderation and to make safe choices.
