Then I unrolled the black cloth napkin and noticed something unusual about the quality stainless flatware: Every surface was mirror-shiny, without a single dishwasher spot in sight, almost as if each piece had been wiped clean by hand before service.
And speaking of service, that was great too: Friendly but not smarmy, attentive but not bothersome, there when we needed them, good with eye contact and a smile.
So what, you say? How about the food? Chef-owner Emil David’s creative, chef-driven, Italian-accented cuisine is remarkably good. We’ll get to that. But seeing those other, seemingly smaller signals of attentiveness and care from the moment we sat down signaled management that cares, a level of care that permeates the entire Perso dining experience.
![A Roman-style formaggio pizza features three cheeses, garlic cream and herbs on an exceptional hand-thrown, squarish artisanal-bread base. - Robin Garr](https://media2.leoweekly.com/leoweekly/imager/u/blog/16539359/perso_pizza.jpeg?cb=1720031885)
Robin Garr
A Roman-style formaggio pizza features three cheeses, garlic cream and herbs on an exceptional hand-thrown, squarish artisanal-bread base.
There is a unified aesthetic to Perso’s space in this attractive two-story 19th century red-brick building: The style, the decor, the attractive tableware, the mood, and the cuisine are classically simple yet highlighted with unexpected flourishes; all of very good quality.
The menu continues its farm-to-table ethos with a menu that changes with the seasons but always includes house-made charcuterie and breads, craft cocktails and a thoughtful bar program, and, of course, Roman-style pizza.
![Silken chilled artichoke dip buzzed with pickled ramps and topped with a pool of black tahini and pea tendrils came with a stunningly good warm mini-loaf topped with peppery spice. - Robin Garr](https://media1.leoweekly.com/leoweekly/imager/u/blog/16539362/perso_dip.jpeg?cb=1720031885)
Robin Garr
Silken chilled artichoke dip buzzed with pickled ramps and topped with a pool of black tahini and pea tendrils came with a stunningly good warm mini-loaf topped with peppery spice.
This is not cheap eats, but pricing is reasonable and fair. Charcuterie boards sufficient for three or four are priced from $9 to $18. Dishes billed as “mostly vegetables” include six starters from $12 to $17 and three entrees from $21 to $25. “Land and Sea” dishes feature four starters from $12 to $23 and nine entrees from $24 to $42, plus a single $75 outlier, a 16-ounce 30-day aged rib eye. Included in those categories are four Roman-style pizzas priced from $23 to $29. A three-course prix fixe menu is available Sundays through Wednesdays at a flat $29; and a family-style three-course chef’s dinner for your table is $55 per person.
We combined a prix fixe selection and several a la carte items to make an abundant meal without a flaw.
![Impressive in its presentation and seductively tasty, a cauliflower entree features three preparations in one: a whole, tender head dusted with spice; quick-pickled florets, and a luscious puree. - Robin Garr](https://media1.leoweekly.com/leoweekly/imager/u/blog/16539363/perso_cauli.jpeg?cb=1720031885)
Robin Garr
Impressive in its presentation and seductively tasty, a cauliflower entree features three preparations in one: a whole, tender head dusted with spice; quick-pickled florets, and a luscious puree.
A grilled artichoke dip starter ($15) began with a pool of thick, creamy and gently smoky artichoke puree drizzled with a pool of black tahini and garnished with a garden of pea tendrils and garlicky snipped ramps. It was served with a round of spectacularly good house-made bread the size of a baseball, crisp on the outside and fluffy within, dotted with a peppery spice mix on top.
Cauliflower three ways ($21) was impressive in presentation and taste. A whole head of cauliflower, roasted to tender perfection, was dusted with a subtly peppery and aromatic spice mix. It sat atop a thick pool of pureed cauliflower and was flanked by tiny, crunchy and tangy quick-pickled cauliflower florets.
The three-course prix fixe ($29), available dine-in only, offers a choice among four starters, four entrees, and two desserts. A portion of all Prix Fixe sales is given to Blessings in a Backpack, a worthy organization that helps feed local school children who suffer from food insecurity.
![Pasta e fagioli brings together plump cranberry beans and handmade cavatappi pasta in a simple yet delicious Italian-style combination. - Robin Garr](https://media2.leoweekly.com/leoweekly/imager/u/blog/16539361/perso_pasta.jpeg?cb=1720031885)
Robin Garr
Pasta e fagioli brings together plump cranberry beans and handmade cavatappi pasta in a simple yet delicious Italian-style combination.
A hearty pasta e fagioli starter mixed plump cranberry beans and fresh campanelle pasta in a thick tomato sauce, topped with grated mild pecorino toscano cheese and snipped basil leaves.
Osso buco was built on a grass-fed beef shank braised to full doneness, yielding a dark, intensely flavorful chunk of beef. An intense stock reduction was poured over the meat and pooled on the plate, with thick, al dente asparagus spears and a pea tendril garnish. It’s a gift to be simple, as the Shakers sang, and this approach through simplicity yielded a dish with real class.
![Candy scone, a chef's choice dessert on the three-course prix-fixe dinner, features bits of candy baked into a tempting scone, served with dabs of mascarpone, and caramel drizzle. - Robin Garr](https://media1.leoweekly.com/leoweekly/imager/u/blog/16539360/perso_scone.jpeg?cb=1720031885)
Robin Garr
Candy scone, a chef's choice dessert on the three-course prix-fixe dinner, features bits of candy baked into a tempting scone, served with dabs of mascarpone, and caramel drizzle.
The “chef’s choice” prix fixe dessert was a “candy scone,” fresh-baked and filled with tiny bits of Reese Cups, Twix, and other candies, served with blobs of sweet mascarpone cheese and a caramel drizzle.
An exceptionally good dinner was $68.90 plus a $20 tip. We couldn’t resist paying homage to Perso’s heritage with a formaggio pizza ($23) to go. A blend of mozzarella and ricotta cheeses, garlic cream, and herbs on a hand-thrown, artisanal-bread base, it was as memorable as everything else about Perso.
Perso
741 E. Oak St.
290-5721
persorestaurant.com
facebook.com/persorestaurant
instagram.com/persorestaurant
Noise Level: When this modest-size room is full, the sound definitely rises, with average sound levels ranging from 74.2dB to 77.2dB on repeated checks; but the high ceiling and an acoustically helpful wall of wooden slats seemed to help. Conversation was always possible.
Accessibility: The restaurant and restrooms appear accessible to unassisted wheelchair users. Tables are fairly closely spaced, but easily moved, and a wide walkway through the room remained available.