The news that Pete Wells got from his doctor was too alarming to ignore: “My scores were bad across the board,” the physician told the 60-something New York Times restaurant critic.
“My cholesterol, blood sugar and hypertension were worse than I’d expected even in my doomiest moments,” Wells wrote in his Critic’s Notebook column on July 15. “The terms pre-diabetes, fatty liver disease and metabolic syndrome were thrown around. I was technically obese. OK, not just technically. I knew I needed to change my life.”
So Wells made a decision that shook restaurant kitchens and food lovers across Gotham and beyond: “After 12 Years of Reviewing Restaurants, I’m Leaving the Table.”
Yes, The Times’ restaurant critic, arguably the nation’s most powerful food influencer, was stepping down, brought up short by a health report too alarming to ignore.
I hear you, Pete. Been there, done that – well, except for the stepping down part or the trying 36 dishes before writing a review – as have a good share of the food writers I’ve known or heard about. When I took the critic’s fork at The Louisville Times back in the ‘80s, I was lean and mean and fit, weighing in at a slim 145 pounds and fitting easily into a 30-inch belt. I could eat a large pizza at a single bound without suffering any consequences. I was young. I was strong. Hear me roar.
But I should have paid attention to a predecessor at The Times’ critics’ table, who went from a relatively skinny frame to being nicknamed “The Blob” within two years.
I loved writing about restaurants and about expressing my first-person opinions, a thing I would never do on my day job as a Times city-desk reporter. I ate, I noshed, and before I knew it I had added 30 pounds and counting. I developed the beginnings of a serious belly, and my doctor started muttering about blood pressure and cholesterol. This is how I learned that metabolism catches up with you in your 30s.
I’ve continued writing about food and wine as a side gig over all the years since, and maintaining a healthy weight has been a pardon-the-expression up-and-down challenge, increasingly so as the passing years take their toll. But I still love this work and intend to keep on doing it. To accomplish that, I’ve learned to take steps that some might consider tough but that I’ve made habitual, and ultimately got my weight and waist size back within reasonable range of that slender young reporter back in 1984.
Now, let me clarify: I’m not just bragging. I’m doing what food writers do: Recognizing that a lot of you probably fight this battle, too, I decided to devote this column to sharing a few tips based on my experience. The more we love to pull up to the table at our favorite eateries and enjoy an indulgent meal, the more we have to pay our money and make our choice … a choice between hulking out or learning to focus seriously on portion control, diet, and exercise.
In other words, the challenges that face the restaurant critic are also challenges, at least to some degree, for everyone who loves to dine out regularly.
So what can we do? Let’s talk about some simple strategies that can balance indulgence with moderation.
Don’t eat all the food!
This one is obvious: Restaurant portions tend to be sizable, and many of us like to sample more than one course. When I’m reviewing, trying several dishes is mandatory. But I don’t need to eat it all, and neither do you. You can request a takeout box at the end of the meal or, as some of my friends do, get the box up front and transfer half of your entree into it before you start to eat. This has the double advantage of taking temptation out of your way and keeping your leftovers presentable for lunch another day. What’s more, this approach gets you two meals for the price of one.
Sharing is caring
Whether I’m reviewing with spouse or friends, sharing is mandatory, so I can sample and report on as many dishes as possible. Sharing appetizers or even an entree can hold down your consumption and your costs too. A couple can even order one entree and an appetizers or two rather than two large entrees, thus getting away with a lighter meal and smaller tab.
Smart ordering
Check menus on the restaurant’s web page or social media (hoping, of course, that they’re up to date) and check a few dishes you’d like. Unless you’re just aching for a steak, consider an interesting dish featuring poultry or fish. Or as I usually do in reviews, explore the unexpected pleasures of a creative plant-based dish. Think about ingredients when you’re making decisions: Is one dish heavy on carbs, another dripping with succulent, delicious, and oh-so-calorific fat? Crunchy fried noms or healthy broiled or grilled items? You certainly don’t have to skip the tasty fatty delights, but it makes sense to balance a heavier dish with a healthier one.
Etc.
Lots of small decisions can add up: A cocktail with a sugary mix or a glass of wine? Or a zero-calorie glass of Louisville Tap? No one is forcing you to finish that bread basket or oversized bowl of chips with salsa (although it’s true, it’s hard to resist). That salad looks healthy, but you don’t have to choose the one with a half-pound of bacon. You can request that rich and creamy dressing on the side. Slow down, savor every bite, and sip plenty of water as you go. And maybe even skip dessert.
Finally, exercise is your friend. Work out seriously if that’s your style, but even a daily walk just brisk enough to get your heart working is one of the best things you can do for yourself.
